A Hat That Fits!

By Laughing Zebra Studios

 Yarn: Worsted weight.

Gauge: This hat is worked in worsted weight yarn at 5.5 stitches per inch.

Size: Adult medium.

96 is the magic cast on number. It is a multiple of 4 so you can do 2 x 2 ribbing easily. Most adult head sizes vary by only a half to one inch at most. To change the hat size to accommodate your favorite “fat head” spouse or a more petite cousin, try varying the size of the needle you are using. In general it is better if the hat has to stretch a little to fit. That way it will stay put on your head and not slide all over the place. This hat fits me “lightly” and does stay put, however if I were doing heavy labor outside (like shoveling snow or extreme sports) I might want it to fit tighter. In retrospect, I would be tempted to subtract 4 to 8 stitches from the cast on number (so much for my magic cast on number of 96!) or do the next one on a smaller size needle. (The math: 96 stitches divided by 5.5 inches per inch equals 17.45 inches. If the gauge is tighter: 96 stitches divided by 6 stitches per inch equals 16 inches. That's an approximate 1.5 inch difference). If you don't like tight knitting you might want to subtract some stitches rather than use the smaller needles.

Cast on 96 stitches on either double pointed or circular needles using your favorite cast on method.

Rim

Work rim of hat in 2 x 2 rib for approximately 2.5 inches.

For an easy decorative effect in this rim try:

6 rows in solid colored yarn. (I used cream in this picture. The cast on edge will make it look like 7 rows. You can sub in any solid color you want.)

4 rows in variegated yarn

7 rows in matching solid yarn. (I used cream again.)

*Alternate variation: some people like the rim of their hats to be turned back. This makes the rim thicker and some people like this. Double the border if you want this effect. I would add a few extra rows (2 or 3) to accommodate the rows that are located where the hat folds back on itself.

Body of Hat

Switch to stockinette stitch and larger needles and work even next 4 inches (plus or minus). (Design note: I used a variegated yarn. Because of the width of the hat there were some nice sections of solid colors. The contrast with the solid colored yarn in the rim helps to set off the variegated section nicely.)

Decreasing

Decrease 6 stitches across round by knitting two stitches together at even intervals across round. This means that with 96 stitch in a round you will be knitting 13 stitches and then knitting 2 together. The last group will have only 12 stitches. (The math: 13 plus 1 equals 14 times 6 equals 84 stitches subtracted from 96 cast on leaves 12 stitches remaining.)

Knit next round even.

You will be doing 7 decrease rows alternating with plain rows. Each decrease row will have fewer and fewer stitches between decreases. Be sure to work the decreases so they line up for a more attractive effect. You can place a stitch marker if that helps. If you change to double pointed needles just use 6 needles and do the decrease at the beginning of each needle.

You are now down to 54 stitches. (The math: 7 rounds times 6 decreases equals 42 stitches subtracted from your beginning cast on of 96 equals 54). Don't worry if you are off by a stitch. It will still work.

Knit a decrease row every row now for the next 3 rows. This time you are going to decrease 12 stitches across the round by adding an additional increase evenly between where you have been decreasing. There may be some “gathers” forming at the top of the hat. This is okay and is to be expected.

At the end of these rounds you will be down to 19 stitches. (The math: 54 stitches minus 12 stitches per round for 3 rounds brings you down to 19 stitches.) If you have few extra or less don't worry about it. Cut yarn leaving a very long tail. Thread a darning need and catch all remaining stitches together. I usually go around 2 times OR use the strand doubled being sure to let the extra tail hang to the inside of the hat. I usually tie a knot. It won't show. I also weave the ends in. They won't show either but I do anyway. Probably wasted effort.

Note - Please read!: when I went to make this hat for my husband, I ended up adding approximately 40 more stitches to the round. The end result, as I didn't know until it was too late, is that we now have matching hats. So, ironically, my personal favorite "fat head" was indeed too fat and head sizes vary more than I had anticipated. I also recently knit a hat for my daughter and found that a rolled up brim looks nicer. The bulkier turn gives more definition to the edge of the hat. When doing a turned up edge, you have a choice of whether to continue the ribbing which may give you an even bulkier brim, or to change to stockinette stitch and knit approximately 3 to 4 inches more than the original pattern. Initially, you may see a little bit of purl stitching along the edge, but as it is worn, the brim retains its shape and that edge of purl goes away. Thank you!